In this article:

• Using relaxers for curly hair.
• Getting the "messy" look.
• Styling Asian hair.
• A hair cut for work and for fun.

You’ve asked for it, SharpMan delivers. Send your hair Qs to SharpMan’s new SharpGrooming Q & A with StyleGuru Bill Belsha. WRITE BILL And be sure to include a description of the type of hair you have (thick, thin, curly, straight) and the shape of your face (round, long). Check out this issue’s crop:

Using Relaxers for Curly Hair That Won’t "Stay"

Bill,

I was browsing your hair department. I fit into the class of straight and thick.  My hair is short and stands up straight giving my head that "carpeted look." Growing it in long has done no good, it just looks afro-y. In the mean time, I keep it short and use A LOT of gel to give it a styled appearance, but I hate the way it feels to the touch. Will getting my hair relaxed cause my hair to lay flatter on my head?  If not, are there any other products on the market that can break down my hair so it will lay down flat? 

M.J.C.
Riverdale, NY

Have your hair "relaxed" by a professional, and make sure he or she applies the relaxer and then — with the stuff on — styles the hair exactly the way you want to wear your hair. The hair will break down in that shape, as opposed to some other — way causing way too much volume. But remember, relaxers are serious chemicals and work by breaking down hair, so make sure that the person doing it is experienced with relaxers (specifically) and knows what he wants to do with your hair before applying. Ditto for using a permanent solution (the chemical used to perm hair), but without the rods to create a straightening effect. When using a perm solution, make sure the person doing your hair always uses a "neutralizer" — key to protecting your hair during this harsh process (unless "bald" is your look). Finally, despite your buddies’ "great" idea after a night of partying, always go to a professional. Cheapo over-the-counter products left on just a few minutes too long can cause hair to break and may leave you with bald patches — not a great look. — BILL

Styling Asian Hair and Getting the "Messy" Look

Bill,

I am Asian American and I have thick dry black hair. I was wondering if you could tell me how I can get the "just woke up/messy but stylish" look like Brad Pitt, Dylan McDermont, or Freddie Prinze Jr. A couple of years ago I saw an episode of House of Style where Todd Oldham was demonstrating how guys can cut their own hair so that we wouldn't have to do anything to it for it to look this way. He said just to grab specks of your hair and cut it into different sections. So when we wake up it would just turn out to be "messy." Can you help me with this?

R.A.Y.
Fayetteville, NC

I wouldn’t recommend doing it yourself (see bald patches above), but definitely try it — it’s a cool look. Go to a hairdresser who has experience using a razor to cut hair. Razors are perfect for the thickness of Asian hair and produce great results. When the stylist cuts your hair, he or she should take small clumps of hair and twist it like a rope, then slide the razor along the ends in a diagonal direction.

As for waking up with "perfectly" messy hair, it doesn’t exist. That messy look you see on House of Style takes a lot of work and a bunch more hair products. For styling Asian hair, check out waxed-based products like Dirt by Jonathan, BedHead or my favorite, the Toncho Stick. To get that really messy look, apply your waxed-based product to heal of palm and rub this part of your hand all over your head clockwise and then counterclockwise. — BILL

Accountant By Day . . .

Bill,

I’m an accountant and need a hair cut that can be styled conservatively during the day, yet can be the total opposite when I go out at night. Currently, my stylist is cutting my hair using a straight razor (my request).

Second, my hair looks better short but when I don’t use hair products it tends to frizz up after it dries. I currently use Aveda Retexturizing Gel or Aveda Hair Crème (for a more natural look) for control and styling.  Any suggestions on hair cut or styling products?

Tony V.
No Address Given

In regards to styling for work and play, get a cut that goes as short as it can possibly go before it gets "spiky." It should be short enough to lie down flat when combed down into a conservative style, but then short enough to spike into different directions for night.

With regard to hair products, you have the right products for a "natural" look (Aveda Retexturizing Gel or Aveda Hair Crème). For going out at night, try the Toncho Stick, Dirt, and Sebastian’s Molding Mud. Use these products to style in the same manner described for "messy" hair (above). If these products or the ones you use for a natural look are not enough to hold down your hair during the day, go with a stronger gel.

With all products, it’s a good idea to start with a smaller amount and add as you go. That way you don’t have to shower again if you put in too much. — BILL

Send your hair Qs to SharpMan’s new SharpGrooming Q & A with StyleGuru Bill Belsha. Remember to include a description of the type of hair you have (curly, straight, thin or thinck) and the shape of your face (round, long). All posted question receive a SharpMan.com T-shirt! WRITE BILL.